Canon recently unveiled its new Dual Pixel 3D, or DP3D for short — an image generation technology making use of Canon’s proprietary Dual Pixel AF technology. The new technology piggybacks off Canon’s proprietary Dual Pixel AF technology found in many of its EOS mirrorless cameras, which splits each pixel on the camera sensor into two separate light-sensitive photodiodes. This tech has delivered reliable and snappy autofocus in recent years — if the two images on each photodiode line up perfectly, the image is in focus, if they don’t line up then the camera knows which direction to move the autofocus motor to rapidly lock on. Canon’s proprietary Dual Pixel AF technology means each pixel is made up of two photodiodes – the technology is now being used to create 3D photos and video (Image credit: Canon) The new Dual Pixel 3D feature can be used to create immersive three-dimensional images via Canon’s new Dual Pixel 3D Converter app which was released in October. While launched in tandem with the hotly-anticipated Canon EOS R8 Mark II on September 16 — a full-frame which makes use of the new feature — it’s good news for owners like myself of any Canon EOS mirrorless camera with Dual Pixel AF, stretching back to older generation models such as the EOS R5 and EOS R6 Mark II, which will be able to benefit without a firmware update (although updating the firmware is always a good idea to stay up date with the latest features and bug fixes). I downloaded the Canon Dual Pixel 3D Converter app to put it through its paces — here’s everything you need to know to get started…
How to take photos for Canon DP3D
To begin, you’ll need a Canon EOS camera with Dual Pixel AF. It’s safe to say if you own one of Canon’s interchangeable lens mirrorless cameras in recent years, then your camera will likely feature Dual Pixel AF and be able to make use of this new tech. This is great news for users of older Canon mirrorless cameras like myself as my older EOS R5 and previous generation Canon EOS R6 Mark II will still be able to make full use of this brand-new technology. Your camera will, however, also need to be paired with one of the compatible Canon RF lenses. The list goes beyond specialist Canon RF 5. 2mm F2. 8L Dual Fisheye or RF-S 3. 9mm F3. 5 Dual Fisheye, but it is a little limited and also won’t currently work with older EF or EF-S glass. We published a full list of compatible Canon cameras and lenses that you can use to enjoy this new technology when it was first announced. Most modern Canon cameras, such as the EOS R6 Mark II pictured, will be able to produce the Dual Pixel RAW files needed to create the 3D results in DP3D (Image credit: Future) Canon says, “Specific shooting conditions and techniques are necessary to generate accurate depth information to eliminate blind spots, allow for the required depth of field, subject and background separation, subject depth and surface texture.” In my experience the software works best when your subject is taken on a clean background (no bokeh) and without too many blind spots which make it harder for the software to create its 3D effect. You also want an object that’s relatively flat with not too much depth; little bumps are fine such as small pieces of fruit on a tart, but large peaks in depth will cause more significant issues and make the effect much more noticeable and fake-looking. Two of the compatible lenses Canon lists are the Canon RF 100mm f2. 8L Macro IS USM and Canon RF 35mm f1. 8 IS Macro STM , both of which are macro lenses. Yet, when I shot with both of these I later got an alert in DP3D warning me for shooting too close to my subject! The result still turned out fine, though. (Image credit: Canon) To use the new software you’ll need to make sure you’re shooting not only in the RAW format, but Canon’s Dual Pixel RAW (see above). This setting was found in the very first camera menu on my Canon EOS R6 Mark II. Note that shooting Dual Pixel RAW will produce files roughly twice the size, take longer to write to your memory card, and can’t be taken when using the electronic shutter. Alongside 3D, Dual Pixel RAW can be useful for correcting minor parallax error, shifting bokeh or focus and reducing flare, but if you don’t intend to utilize these capabilities within Canon’s DPP, I would suggest turning it off when you don’t need it to avoid compromizing the camera’s performance. Make sure your subject and focal point are in focus and that your shutter speed is fast enough to shoot handheld – if you’re in doubt shoot on a tripod. You’ll also want to make sure your exposure is correct so that the image isn’t too bright or dark. Canon recommends you don’t close the aperture down past f/5. 6 and also keep the camera’s sensitivity under ISO 1600 – a warning sign will be displayed on your image when you import it into DP3D otherwise and you won’t get optimal 3D results…